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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.